The Mesmerizing Mystique of Malibu

For many years, even after I became addicted to the act of riding waves, I thought Malibu was a bit cliche. Yes, of course, it was synonymous with surfing and surf culture. Even those who didn’t surf automatically associated Malibu with surfing. I was happy with the waves in San Diego, and after I found my “secret…

Tic Tocs and Winter Time Waves

This morning I woke up and couldn’t decide whether to skip yoga practice and just go surfing…but it is Sunday, and skipping yoga somehow felt wrong. However, when the waves are big, I wondered if I would be too tired to paddle through the line up after almost 2 hours of yoga. Yoga or surfing?…

Extroversion and introversion in surfing and yoga

I have been thinking about this for some time, and I still find some places where extroversion and introversion merge in the worlds of surfing and yoga. At first glance, you would say that surfing is extroverted. Your senses have to be tuned to the external environment — for example, my eyes are constantly scanning…