Tic Tocs and Winter Time Waves

This morning I woke up and couldn’t decide whether to skip yoga practice and just go surfing…but it is Sunday, and skipping yoga somehow felt wrong. However, when the waves are big, I wondered if I would be too tired to paddle through the line up after almost 2 hours of yoga. Yoga or surfing?…

Extroversion and introversion in surfing and yoga

I have been thinking about this for some time, and I still find some places where extroversion and introversion merge in the worlds of surfing and yoga. At first glance, you would say that surfing is extroverted. Your senses have to be tuned to the external environment — for example, my eyes are constantly scanning…

Tic, Toc!

I “tocked” today. It still feels a bit surreal. I remember every moment and at the same time, I can’t believe that it happened. I woke up only after 6 hours of sleep…in bed by nine, woke up at 3am and couldn’t go back to sleep. Admittedly, I was more preoccupied by waves than by…

Catching waves before the storm

This past Friday, SoCal was due for another winter storm (otherwise known as just rain). I hadn’t surfed since Monday, and was pretty sure that Saturday and Sunday would be trashed (which happened to be the case)…so during the week I obsessively checked the surf reports (Surfline and Wetsand being my two favorites) as well…

Great whites, 10 foot waves, and lightning…

So, in these past few days, the summer South swell that we had all been dreaming of and eagerly waiting for finally arrived last Wednesday.  Thanks to a massive storm in New Zealand, waves up to 10 feet pounded most of Southern California, prompting high surf advisories and even claiming the life of 1 Orange…